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Discussion Starter #1
My father-in-law bought a used 2011 Ranger Diesel with 116 hours on the clock. It's had the idle already turned down to 850. It is showing the shift problems that appear to be common on this model.

Has anyone tried Interceptor's secondary clutch mod where the back half of the clutch is swapped with a 2009 Sportsman Secondary and the belt is changed over to a Gates belt that would fit the Sportsman:

2009 Sportsman 850 secondary part #1322777
2009 Sportsman 850 belt part #3211160 Gates #23G3836

In his original post he was using it in conjunction with a 2014 stock clutch. I'm assuming that the one I'll be working with is the stock 2011 clutch. Any thoughts on if the 850 secondary will work with the 2011 clutch?

I figured this could be done for about $120 with used parts from eBay. I thought I might try this first before going to the DuraClutch.

Does it take any special tools to swap out just the secondary part of the clutch? Thanks for any insight or advice you might have for me on this.
 

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i too have been looking at doing that mod,if it works,awesome! A couple hundred is a lot cheaper than $1500. If you decide to go ahead and drop the coin and try the mod out please update this post!
 

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I'd give it a shot. If your main concern is hard shifting, it should take care of it. In that regard it actually worked beter than the Duraclutch for me. I wouldn't be afraid to try the 2010 Sportsman secondary either, it's the same thing with just a slightly different helix angle. You don't need any special tools, just a 10mm socket to get the cover off and a 13mm to get the secondary bolt out. Then the secondary just slides off. There may be some shims behind it. Those are used to align it with the primary. You can align it by measuring the belt gap at the primary. It may take a few tries to get it right, but alignment is far less critical when using the narrow Sportsman belt.

The 2011 diesel primary is different, but should work just the same. The biggest thing is that you're using the narrow Sportsman belt instead of the wide diesel belt that's always dragging on the sheaves.

I have a Brutus now, I've sold the diesel Ranger to a friend. It's still got the Sportsman parts on it and still working great. If anyone's interested I've got a Duraclutch that was only used for a week or two. I also have a used 2012-2014 diesel primary. Send me a pm if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the information. It's great to get it straight from the source. I've ordered the parts, should be here next week. The 'Ranger is about 150 miles away at the farm.
It will probably be mid-October until I get it done, but I will post an update with my results. Depending on how it goes, I may be interested in that DuraClutch.
 

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Should work just fine and actually be more reliable than the 2012 and later clutches.

I've got a full 2011 and 2012 clutch for mine sitting in my garage from where I was trying to solve the hard shifting issue on my own.

The difference between the 2011 and 2012 clutches is all in the primary, secondaries were the same.

The 2011 primary was the old style with no center roller bearing. It's a simpler design!

The 2012 and up had a center roller bearing where Polaris tried to solve the shifting problem by reducing any drag that the lack of a bearing caused. It didn't work for me.

Personally, I'd rather have no center bearing as those are known to eventually fail due to getting fine grit inside and wearing the needle rollers out.
 

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I wonder if the thinner(narrower im assuming?) belt will sacrifice some durability vs the stock belt. I use my ranger mostly to pull a huge dr brush mower on my hunting land. Mower itself weighs around 700lbs. You name it and we pull it through it,hills,rocks,small trees etc. Then consider the weight of the machine that the belt was originally intended for vs the ranger which is close to twice the weight.
 

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I would say the durability is close to the same.

Transfer of power requires the belt to be pinched, using a more narrow belt just moves the rpm at which the primary first engages just a bit higher.

I wouldn't worry about the weight of the ranger vs the 850 either. Since interceptor listed the PN for a 2009 850, I'll use it's specs that I found online.

The 2009 850 is listed as weighing 784lb, is rated to pull 1500lb and has 70hp.

I don't think you'll have issues with belt strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's been a while, but I finally found time to get out-of-town and work on the Ranger with my father-in-law. We put the 850 secondary and the new belt on and gave it a test drive. Immediately, we noticed the improved engagement RPM.
But the stuck-in-gear behavior was even worse than before.

It appears the belt is binding to the primary clutch and keeping tension on the secondary. This, in turn, appears to keep the gears in the transmission meshed.
With the engine off, I could manually turn the primary counter-clockwise about 3/4 of a turn and feel the belt tension change. When that occurs, the shifter is free to work again.

I found two shims under the original secondary clutch. I tried the 850 with 0,1 & 2 shims without much difference in behavior. Alignment was best with 0 shims.

In the end, We put the original 1322951 secondary clutch back on with 1 shim and the original 3211135 belt. The original belt is much, much looser than the Gates 23G3836. (3+" of belt deflection versus less than 1" with the 850 belt) I'm wondering if the 'original' primary and/or secondary clutch has been modified with the Polaris "shift improvement" kit. My father-in-law is the third owner, so the service history is as little shaky. I see that the BLACK primary clutch spring is marked with a RED and WHITE paint band.

So I have a couple of questions on this; When the Ranger is not running, should the belt be really loose on the primary clutch shaft?
Is the stock 2011 primary clutch spring Black/RED/WHITE?

Thanks for any insight or suggestions you have in my problem.
 

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hmm i wonder why it worked for 1 machine and not the other..i will be keeping a close eye on this thread. I would much rather spend a few hundred dollars vs $1500 for the duraclutch.
 

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hmm i wonder why it worked for 1 machine and not the other..
Probably the same reason why some people don't have any problems with the stock setup and others can't get it to work no matter what they do. Lack of consistency and quality control plus a design that's just on the edge of not working at all. The Duraclutch that everyone praises didn't fix mine, I actually think it sucked and I took it off after only a week.

My 2011 had a 2012 primary on it with the needle bearing in the center. That could be the difference that makes it work. As far as I know it's still working. I don't own it any more but I'm sure my buddy would have let me know if it was giving him problems. I have a Brutus now and I'll never go back to a CVT.
 

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Chalkhead, I still have a spare 2012 Diesel primary. The needle bearing feels a little dry and the buttons are tight on the spider. If you want to try to fix it I'll send it to you. PM me with your address.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Interceptor,

Thanks for your reply.

I would feel bad making you pay to send a 'free' clutch to me.

I do appreciate your help with this and in no way would blame you for this not fixing my issue.

I really like your ingenuity and creative approach to the problem.

I was looking at the 2011 clutch on the Ranger. To me it looks like the buttons are stuck on it, and would obstruct the movement of the spider. I bought a clutch tool and a service manual to see if I can't pull it apart and clean/rebuild. I also think a weaker spring would help.

The real issue may be the alignment of the primary and secondary. I'm hoping the service manual covers the proper alignment procedure, although from reading the threads on the diesel, it apparently doesn't even cover idle adjustment. We'll see when it gets here.

If you really want to get rid of the 2012 clutch, send me an amount that you would accept for it+shipping, and your address/paypal and I'll send payment. Unfortunately, you'll have to PM me since I can't send PMs until after I have created 5 posts.

Happy Holidays and Thanks again for your help with this.
 

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The alignment is extremely critical due to the tight clearance between the belt and primary sheaves. I think the narrower Sportsman belt alleviates this problem somewhat by increasing the clearance, but the fixed sheave clearance (toward front of vehicle) still needs to be checked/maintained. It's relatively easy to check using feeler gauges and it is covered in the manual.

The stock 2011 primary spring should be black/silver with 3.05" free length. 2012 should be black/red with 3.05" free length.

The manual does not cover idle speed adjustment, probably due to tight emissions regulations. It's not in the engine manual from Yanmar either. It's pretty easy to figure out which screw to adjust by looking at the throttle linkage on the injection pump.
 

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Chaulkhead, not sure of the year, but the "stuck in gear" sounds like the one way bearing on the primary...especially when it shifts freely with the engine not running. Pull the primary and clean out the bearing. Don't use grease because it will hold belt dust and grit. Clean it out and l finished with brake cleaner. Put the clutch back on, and with the cover off, crank it and see if it idles without spinning the belt. If it works correctly, I think the one way bearing is about $80. I reused the original and is still working correctly, but haven't put that many miles on it. Let us know what happens. Good luck!
 
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