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Discussion Starter #1
Here in the NE where we ride most of the trails are old logging roads that get washed out in spring from the run off. This leaves lots of rocks, some big but most the size that you can smack either with a tire or the skid and they can do some serious damage.

The RZR has a very weak skid under it so we used this UHMW material in 3/8" thick.







UHMW is Ultra high Molecular Weight poly plastic and used in heavy industry such as for linning the inside of dump truck beds so rocks and sharp or sticky stuff will slide ride out. It is tuff as nails and simple to work with with regular woodworking tools. Unlike aluminum, which might be a bit stronger, UHMW just slides right over rocks and logs rather than to stick like glue on them.

We are very happy with what we made and feel completely protected from underneath now.

One sheet 4 feet by 10 feet costs around $300 and made two complete sets for the RZRs including the plates for the front and rear differentials. You should be able to find it at a place that carries or can get you full sheets of plastic like Lexan or Plexiglass.

We have been over some nasty rocks and can't even see where we hit them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
caglezxj said:
I was going to make one out of steel, but I think I might go that route. Looks great.
I considered Steel but it is heavy and would rust pretty bad up here. Thought about aluminum but it sticks so badly on every rock I hated it on my Sportsman and went over the bars twice because of it.

This UHMW stuff is just the ticket for us and they use it in coal delivery trucks around here because nothing will stick or freeze to it. The guy at the caol place told me about it and said he was replacing the steel beds in his dump bodies every three years because they wore right thru. Claims he has not replaced a single piece of UHMW in 5 years since he started screwing it to the steel beds. Thats good enough for me.

This added exactly 20 pounds to my weight and probably 100 times better protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes! I made a complete set of templates and sent it to Josh. I think he should know where they are now.

Gary
 

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Just click on the "send this person a personal message" at the bottom of this link.
Josh is caglezxj

http://polarisrangerforum.com/index.php?action=profile;u=1

You can get to this page by signing in and clicking on "Members". (Click on date registered to get him to the top of the page).
 

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Vern should have them now, and we will keep posting in here who has them. Don't send them to anyone else in here without posting in here first as we need to keep track of them.

Josh
 

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I have them. Making them on tuesday or wednesday.

I just got ahold of the plastic place. They have some black in finally.
 

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Could you post a set of pics with good measurements instead of mailing the prints. Also do any of you have plans for snorkel kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I never took the measurments when I designed this skid set.

I used the original skid to get the center line holes from front to rear and I used a piece of heavy construction type foggy plastic sheating. I attached it from the center and felt my way for the rest of the holes working out to the edges. Then with a razor knife I cut the plastic sheet around the frame and extended it where I wanted the sides to come to. Then you transfer the pattern to your UHMW and have fun.

I can send you my instructions for making the holes and mounting the UHMW with the tools you will need. Others have used the stock skid and winged it from there with good results by just adding the additional coverage areas they wanted to cover. You need a piece of UHMW 4 feet wide by 5 feet long in either 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick, I used 3/8 and can't hurt the stuff.

You deffinately want to recess the cup washers so the bolts don't get sheared off. If you need extra cup washers, use the ones that come off of old shock absorber tops that squeeze the rubber. The bolts are standard 1/4 X 20 thread and you will need a few that are longer then the ones you remove. Be sure to cut the correct holes to get at the oil and differential fill and drains. Also be sure to cut some additional drainage holes or slots to get the leaves, mud and twigs out. A jig saw, router and a sharp fostner 1 1/2" bit in a heavy duty variable speed drill is all you really need. Practice useing the fostner bit on a couple pieces of the scrap and only use a 1/8" drill bit to make the pilot holes in the UHMW, they will guide the fostner point and bigger holes will make it very difficult.

UHMW is simple to work with standard wood tools but it does make a mess. It can't be glued but it can be routed to mate edges with rabbit type overlaps.

Here are a few more pics.

















Gary
 

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Grazor it's been a couple years since you posted about these skid plates how are yours holding up and did you ever make a template for a Ranger 800xp...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UHMW is about as indestructible as any material could ever hope to be. I have over 400 miles of hard rock on them and hardly a scratch. I have sheared off a couple of the fastener bolts but no other issues at all.
I never made any other templates and pretty much gave up on the ones I lent out and never saw again. They are out here somewhere but I have no clue where.

Gary
 

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I want to make these where did you purchase your material and did you remove ur stock skids to make ur templates.... thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I lost all of my links when I upgraded, or IMO downgraded to Win 7.

There are lots of places to buy 3/8" UHMW but finding it locally might be best if possible. Shipping gets expensive with over sized materials. They sell sheets in 4' X 8' and 4' X 10' or any size below but you pay almost as much for a half sheet as a full.

Try Cope Plastics or do a search on the web.

I did remove my factory and absolutely useless skid plate. I did use it for a general guide to make my templates keeping in mind some play room for the curves. Another good method is to use heavy clear plastic like a painter uses to cover floors. Find the center holes, fasten it and then find the rest by feel as you mold the plastic to the under side. I punched holes with an awl to get them exactly where they need to be. Also make sure you leave holes for oil drain plug access and then a few extras so water and leaves can get out. The object is to cover and protect the important stuff from sharp rocks.

Unlike aluminum skids that tend to stick on sharp rocks you will find the UHMW just glides right over them smooth and easy and they hardly leave a scratch. This is why they use it to line truck beds that carry sharp rocks, coal and other materials that wear the metal fast and also where the carried material could stick or freeze in the bed. Not much hurts UHMW.

One of my hunting buddies bought the aluminum skids for his RZR around the same time as we made ours. Right now his skids look like they have been through a war but they are still protecting his machine. Ours don't look much different from the day we made them.

Have fun with your project. On the RZRs a 4' X 10' sheet makes 2 full skids. I can't speak on the full size rangers.

Gary
 

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1 last little trick guys. On the last row of screws towards the back before you screw it down put a 3/4" spacer made of the same material or other and on the next row of screws towards the front of the machine put a 1/2" spacer. That will give you a gap between the skid plate and the frame for all the mud and else to run out of it. the skid plate as is from factory is just a big bucket a big collector of mud , sand etc ... that never dries out n rust everything in site. or it will take you for ever to clean it out. you can also take the skid plate off everytime you wash but thats a big pain in the putt. Try it out. it works.
The only thing is when you drive over rock ledges just remember be careful. Its worth it.
 

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Layout

Vern should have them now, and we will keep posting in here who has them. Don't send them to anyone else in here without posting in here first as we need to keep track of them.

Josh
These measurements are for a razor and I assume they would be different for a XP?
 

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what a sweet mod, i climbed under my XP to find a chunk of the factory skid near the passenger side front busted and hanging down, , got my heat gun out and got it flexable, drilled some holes and zip tied it back together.. temp fix i know, your mod is what i need..
 
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