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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading a lot of links about this problem ... Stalling and dying. A lot of advise and a lot of speculation lol.

This problem for me is what led me here to the forum. There has been some conversation on this topic here and elsewhere on the net.

A lot of different situations in which the problem occurs, and as one person in a you tube video commented ... There doesn't seem to be any common thread to when an why this happens.

Like with my Ranger, It didn't do this when we went on our first good ride into Coyote at all. It did it the first time on a flat ride, kind of hot out. The second trip up Silver Canyon which was a lil more strenuous for the machine and produced this problem.

Then tonight i took it out for a spin on the powerline Rd and down along the hot ditch. It was running fine, and then it died. It restarted easily, and off i went .. a few minutes later is started cutting out, it didn't die, and would improve with a lil throttle, but would run good, then start bucking, wanting to die, lil throttle it runs OK. hmmm

I always tended to feel it is electrical, but there has been a lot of speculation and some good honest advice. Some feel it is fuel, and rightfully so, vapor locking happens and will do the same thing. But what I am experiencing doesn't act like vapor locking, in that the machine starts right up and idles and will run with a little throttle or sometimes just want to idle .. no throttle.

With my experience of vapor locking, the motor will not start while it is vapor locked, only after cooling down will it then start.

I read a link somewhere .. someone stated .. that the Polaris shop advised them that they were dealing with an ECM/ECU problem, that when they start to go ... they start doing this. I wonder .. is this the culprit ... A lot of people have stated they changed fuel pumps, coils, etc ... and with no cure.

The same quote about the ECM/ECU stated that there are after market applications that seem to work better than the OEM units.

Any thoughts on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After talking with our electrical engineer at work .. he pretty much steered me away from the Electrical problem, and back to the fuel ... I think I will try flushing the system and replacing the fuel filter. and add some fuel treatment. It was recommended that I use some octane boost, to help with any fuel moisture that most likely occur. I'm thinking just some fuel treatment in the tank when fueling?
 

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Electronics these days either work or they don't. Check your fuel-pressure first and make sure your tank-vent is not plugged. Water in the fuel will act like yours also. The "starting to go out" thing with the ECU was probably just a dealer making excuses!
 

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Check your oil, polaris says its impossible but believe me it happened to me over 50 times and every time it was low on oil and it would go into like a limp mode. No codes flashed or anything. Put oil in and ran like a champ
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You know .. I went out and did some checking on the fuel system, i do not have a pressure guage to check fuel, but I can get one. One thing I did find .. is that the tank breather just goes into the frame rail, like someone on the forum stated. It is just open at the end of the hose, and the end of the frame rail. Hmm.
I put a chain saw fuel filter on it for now, I will get something better. I'm sure the fine dust was just whisping on into the tank, as we do have a lot of dust here.
I am going to get a fuel filter and flush the system out, and check the pressure. I'm thinking the flush and filter will do it. But lol ... we will see?

Yeah I just changed the oil, it was up to snuff. Need a new air filter though .. getting that too.

Thanks for the input!
 

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Check your oil, polaris says its impossible but believe me it happened to me over 50 times and every time it was low on oil and it would go into like a limp mode. No codes flashed or anything. Put oil in and ran like a champ
Exact thing happened to mine. Hadn't checked the oil and it was 1 qt. low. Added the oil and it ran great. Beyond me other than it sounded like the valves were out of adjustment. Lifters may have lost prime.
 

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Exact thing happened to mine. Hadn't checked the oil and it was 1 qt. low. Added the oil and it ran great. Beyond me other than it sounded like the valves were out of adjustment. Lifters may have lost prime.

Being a quart low in my Ranger is like being 4 quarts low in my truck. Not good.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OK .. so someone commented the other day .. a friend here in town, that his brother in law has an '08, he is having same issues, something about the throttle positioning sensor?

This problem I have now .. the cutting out, has more of a definite pattern .. it seems to happen after about 15-20 minutes of driving. It will cut out when you give it throttle, it always is preceded with one hesitation. When acceleration is applied it staggers and farts, until you let off the throttle, then it will run fine at an even RPMs until accelerator is pushed. It will always start right up if it dies and will idle. And run when stopped, in neutral or in gear and rolling.

I'm wondering too .. is there a governor that keeps RPM's down for over reving? That might be messing up too?

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rawyo, it could be a problem or a contributing problem. These machines create a lot of heat and the cab is not as insulated as other off road vehicles. For now just have to try to mitigate the problems.

I thought I had posted what I found to be the problem in a new thread but I am not seeing it. What was causing my Ranger to hesitate and die. The wire feed to the TPS (Throttle Positioning sensor) had a chafed spot I found when I went to inspect the TPS. I placed a piece of pipe insulation between the wiring and the Starter motor's positive connection. It cleared up!
 

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Depending on ur machine, it should have a rev limiter, but its set at like 6300 rpms or so. At least mine is. One problem that I have had in other gas powered engines with running stupid is the ethanol. Now I not hating on ethanol, it has its place and uses but it doesn't get along with heat at ALL. A buddy runs it in his 1300 hp small block ford in NHRA EXTREME STREET Class. So it can make power but it boils at 160 degrees. I run the higher test gas MAINLY to get non ethanol blended gas. And I have never once had it mess up on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Rawyo, I'm not seeing that thread here, but what was the cause for my Ranger's cutting out, was the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) wire harness. It was chafed where it was rubbing on the starter motor's power connection. I placed a piece of foam pipe insulation between them and it cleared up. I will make a better fix on it, once I determine the extent of the chafing, whether it wore through the individual wire's insulation or not?
 

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I have tried all the above suggestions with negative results. After running for a while(when it gets hot) if I go downhill or take foot off gas to reverse direction it stalls. Does not want to start back up until a minute or two. Driving me crazy its got to be something simple. 229 hours on machine 2011 500efi crew. don't think the engineer is right if it a fuel problem why does it start right up?? something is being effected by the heat. Im starting to wonder about exhaust or does this thing have a catylitic converter?? there is got to be a Polaris rep somewhere that can diagnose this. the dealers solution is to trade it in on a new one.
 

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I have never had a problem with my Ranger. I did have the same problem with my Yamaha Rhino. It was the fuel pump causing my problem. Good Luck.
 

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Talked to the guy at hi flow fuel pumps. First of all there is no aftermarket fuel pump for the 2011 and newer YET. They will have a plug in replacement in a few months. He said stalling isn't a fuel pump issue but loss of power while trying to accelerate is. That makes more sense to me. Now there is a fuel regulator in that filter/regulator/fuel pump insert. Could it be the regulator? Maybe. This would explain why the problem goes away when they replace the whole fuel assembly. It could be the regulator. Unfortunately I don't think you can replace the regulator without replacing the whole assembly.
 

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I have the same problem with 2012 ranger 500 crew mid. I won't idle. Power has dropped off. So time idles to high or to low. I'm guessing fuel pump. Can u change just the pump or is it the whole tank.
 

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I have the same problem with 2012 ranger 500 crew mid. I won't idle. Power has dropped off. So time idles to high or to low. I'm guessing fuel pump. Can u change just the pump or is it the whole tank.
A fuel pressure gauge (ACTRON) is forty bucks on Amazon and you could rule it out..........For good. Beats paying 4-500 $ for a new fuel tank assembly. Your problem sounds more like an dirty IAC or a broken sensor wire .ie TM/BAP-TPS CPS.......Or, possibly a dirty TM/BAP probe. The computer EFI code display may give you a clue if it is an EFI fault and point you in the right direction. 80% of Polaris EFI problems are wiring chafing/broken wires.......??? Polaris even admits it in many of their Ranger service manuals :eek:
 

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I'm Brian468 I had to rejoin with a different name because of password issues. If you have a 2010 and prior the have fuel pumps after market. Check a company called hi flow. I suspect however that these are fuel regulator issues were having. As polaris will only change the entire fuel tank assembly which just so happens to include fuel filter fuel regulator and fuel pump. Which is why you hear people say it was fixed when they replaced the fuel pump at the dealer $450. Aftermarket fuel pumps are about $40 bucks.
 
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