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My new to me 2017 Ranger 900XP with 7,000 miles doesn't engage until about 2000 RPM. Once engaged everything seems fine. So could it be anything else, I'm figuring the belt would be fine as it doesn't seem to misbehave at all once engaged.

Another question. I see what appear to be new clutches on ebay for it for under $400. What is the story?

This is all pretty new to me, my only UTV experience is I have two 2015 ACE 570's for for 3 years now (been flawless)..

Thanks for any advice and help.
 

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Mike,


Your primary is what gets you rolling from a stop. The normal 1400 RPM engagement occurs when the fly weights squeeze the belt and the transmission starts to "hook up." If your belt is worn, that means it's narrower than a new belt. Now, you have to raise the RPM higher to get the sheave (moving pulley half) to move over enough to squeeze the belt. My guess is, you just need a new belt. Start with that.


Ray
 

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Thanks Ray. Makes sense, didn't know how it all worked. Funny how sometimes we look at something simple and it stumps us on how it works, then someone comes along and flicks the switch LOL.... I will go get a belt and see what happens.

Seeing Rockit401 'like' your comment was also good, you both been around these a while.

BTW, got it a little dirty yesterday up in the hills, had to take advantage of 77 degrees, not many more coming this year.
 

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I put a thread up showing pictures of the primary and secondary last week. It would be a good idea if the Mods would make it a "sticky." (On second thought, maybe nobody liked it... Over 100 views and no comments!) It would be great to have one reference page always at the top of the thread listing that would hold repeated questions or answers to common issues like drive shafts, oil change, transmission issues, etc. That would make this already invaluable reference for owners even more user friendly. :)


https://www.rangerforums.net/forum/polaris-ranger-xp900/46319-polaris-transmission.html
 

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If your belt is not the issue, it could be belt dust clogging up the primary. Both the Primary and Secondary are assembled WITHOUT and lubricants. Makes sense, really. Any lube you put on the innards would eventually get tossed off under operation and if any got on the belt, you'd be going nowhere. The sheave (moving pulley half) has to move freely to engage at 1600 RPM. If it gets pretty dusty and dirty from belt wear, it might hang up a tad, requiring the extra RPM. Blasting the primary out with air (or water if you run it for a few minutes afterwards in neutral to sling off the water) might clean it out.


The other (far less likely) cause would be worn pulleys. The fixed side or the sheave side could have wear on it. You would feel that on an inspection.


To get the cover off, look at the DuraClutch thread I did. Pull the air box off (three screws and three hose clamps). Pul the eight screws off holding the cover on. Pull the zirc fitting on the lower edge of the cover off (it conflicts with the cover). Tweak the cover slightly and it will pop free.
 

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Clutch

Mike, you may have the same problem that I had with my 16 900 XP. When new it engaged about 18-1900 RPM. I was always careful not to get water in the belt or engine intakes, but did late last fall. I just removed plug and drained the H20
and parked it in shop. Didn't start it for a couple of weeks, and then it engaged at 25-2600 RPM. No fun to drive anymore.
Finally ordered a clutch kit from Giloman and installed. When taking weights out. they had corroded to the pins. Instead of pivoting on the pins, the weight and pin both had to move. The extra friction of turning the pin in the clutch caused the need for the extra rpm. Now it engages at 15-1550. Now it is fun to drive. May not be your problem, just something to consider. Tim
 
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