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Hey guys, I hope that everyone is doing well. While I am quite familiar with electric vehicles, the Polaris EV has become quite a unique challenge. The problem we initially are encountering are low bottom end torque. We had the local Polaris dealer scan the vehicle which showed to have a throttle input issue. I should probably let you know at this point all area Polaris dealers aren't much help with these vehicles and can't/won't work on it. So we replaced the throttle sensor which didn't fix the problem. After letting it sit a few weeks, the vehicle has begun having intermittent low torque issues, i.e sometimes its fine sometimes it isn't. We have also replaced the differential solenoid and the voltage module that powers that solenoid. We have since replaced the 48v solenoid also with no improvement, with the reasoning being when the key switch is turned to the on position the solenoid activates without pressing the accelerator (which may be correct). We get a 2 LED flash fault code (sequence code) and also a 6 LED (Throttle Code) flash fault code. All voltages across the battery pack are fine. I also do not have a technicians guide either which would be very beneficial. If anyone has any insight it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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My Ranger solenoid clicks when the key i turned on.
 

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The Manufacture date is 5/12. Yes we replaced the differential solenoid due to it seemingly not engaging completely intermittently and also we also changed the 48 volt solenoid at the controller. It makes no difference if the vehicle is in Low or High range, but it seems to have less torque in Max Range. It seems like a fail safe/limp mode issue but I can't be sure of it.
 

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The Manufacture date is 5/12. Yes we replaced the differential solenoid due to it seemingly not engaging completely intermittently
That may be a problem with the DC to DC converter voltage out.

we also changed the 48 volt solenoid at the controller.
That is called the contactor.

P32 Contactor.jpg

It makes no difference if the vehicle is in Low or High range, but it seems to have less torque in Max Range. It seems like a fail safe/limp mode issue but I can't be sure of it.
That is normal. The motor controller provides 100% torque in Low, 75% in High and 50% in Max.

I recommend getting some alligator clips for your multimeter and monitor the DC voltage at the B- and B+ terminals motor controller while driving. You may have a corroded or high resistance cable or connection.

I got my service manual from a member of the forum, chris21, here is his Website: 2012 Ranger EV,LSV Service Manual - Atv Service Manuals
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We connected to the vehicle at our local Polaris dealer and we are only getting around 50% Torque in any of the 3 options, L, M, or H. Ill check the resistance and see where we care.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, what could the reason be for the controller not outputting 100% torque in low, and 75% in High? Again thank you for your help.
 

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Also, what could the reason be for the controller not outputting 100% torque in low, and 75% in High? Again thank you for your help.
If your connections to the H/M/L switch are not good, the controller 'sees' Medium all of the time. With 50% torque. So although the switch may light up, there are 2 sets of contacts on the switches. The signal to the controller could be bad.

One signal is connected to 0V or B- when in in High and the other signal is connected to 0V or B- when in Low.

The pin for High is 5 on the controller connector, wire color is Gray on my 2011. It floats at 13.5 - 14V and is about 0.6V when in High.
The pin for Low is 3 on the controller connector, wire color is Green on my 2011. It floats at 13.5 - 14V and is about 0.7V when in Low.

Carefully scraping away some wiring insulation on those two wires, using an alligator clip on one wire at a time, then checking that voltage compared to B- with your voltmeter should show you if your switch is working right.

Replacement switches are around $50 from Polaris. I've taken apart a couple and had no success cleaning the contacts inside.

Cleaning the connector with contact cleaner and a small wire brush may work for you, if it is surface corrosion issues. That worked for a while for me. I have new connectors and new switches that I ordered from China (cheap knockoffs) that I have yet to install.
 

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--------------------------

It makes no difference if the vehicle is in Low or High range, but it seems to have less torque in Max Range. It seems like a fail safe/limp mode issue but I can't be sure of it.
That is normal. The motor controller provides 100% torque in Low, 75% in High and 50% in Max.

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Need to make a slight correction, should not have relied on my memory.

Torque in High is 70%, not 75%.

dms.JPG
 

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Gents, so I’m aware that I’m over a year late but has there been any resolution to your issue (Shocker_8781)? I have the 2010 EV and it has been a great tool for my little ranch. So it‘s 20 yrs old now and this is the first major issue I’ve had with it. The only other things have been the charger, which with the help of this forum I was able get it working. But since it’s just been new batteries and keeping it clean.
I ordered the service manual and other than discovering what the code flashing are, this manual is not much help for this. I get 6 flashes on the Sevcon when I first turn it on then 2 flashes when I put it in F-orward. Except mine is not moving at all.
Any update for your issues or what is this ‘sequence fault’ would be much appreciate.
Batteries are good a little dirty but still within range. Solinode seems to be good it sounds as it always has, (clicks in and is ready to go, except now it doesn’t move). I’m wondering if I’m going to have to replace the Sevcon controller. And like everyone else my closest dealer hasn’t been much help.
 

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Check the 48 volt fuse behind and under the contactor. Flat black plastic holder w 3 fuses. Check the center fuse. Check MPC plug female side that none of the pin openings look melted of any of the male side pins look tarnished
 

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Check the 48 volt fuse behind and under the contactor. Flat black plastic holder w 3 fuses. Check the center fuse. Check MPC plug female side that none of the pin openings look melted of any of the male side pins look tarnished
Thank you for that. Yes, I have. I've done the hole charger mod because it had burnt pins when I bought it.
 

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Does the contractor click? Have Headlights? These are the controller codes
568FFC2C-50B6-4A93-8BE3-ADC1F568D0EF.jpeg
 

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Does the contractor click? Have Headlights? These are the controller codes
View attachment 24104
Yes, Yes, and I've bought the book, so I now have the codes. thank you for sharing that.
The 2 blink code is how I found this thread. "Sequence Fault" I'm hoping to find out what is meant by the 'sequence fault'. the book says "refer to chapter 8 for diagnosis", but I haven't found where it starts to trouble shoot for this fault. I must be missing it somewhere. I truly appreciate your help.
Why do you ask if it has headlights? Is it a possibility that it could be the 'Sevcon'? What about the 'throttle' peddle? The moment I turn on the key solenoid click in and sounds ready to go, I switch the button to Forward or Reverse and press on the peddle an it goes no where. That is when the Red Wrench light comes on under the steering wheel and the Sevcon shoots the 2 blinks.
 

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Check the voltage at the main contactor. An internal contactor fault will give a voltage drop across the contactor. So with the vehicle turned off check the voltage on the pack side of the contactor, then swapto the load side of the contactor, measure any voltage (ot may have a reading even though its turned off) turn on the vehicle and measure the voltage . There will be a tiny difference as you will now have load on the pack so it will go down. Do check on the pack side again as well. Post those readings on here.
 

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Hi all - it looks like I have the same problem. Did you ever find a fix? What does "sequence fault" mean?

Thanks!!
J.
 
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