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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Does anyone know where this electrical connection goes to? It broke or was cut and looks like it may have been used as a ground. This is on the drivers side of the engine. Any help would be much appreciated.


 

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Looking to do a oil and filter change. What's the recommended oil and filter to use? What gear oil is best to use as well?
That's a loaded question on a forum site, but since it's new to you and has been sitting, I'd recommend just getting the Polaris kit with everything and using their standard fluids to change it all out and start with a known product. They should have a kit that has all the oils, oil filter, air filter, maybe other stuff like belt, spark plugs, etc. I'd start there so you have all the oils, and then add in the other stuff as needed to get a fresh start with all the consumables.

As far as that electrical connection - I agree, looks like a ground, but it doesn't look factory. Probably something added and maybe later removed. Your buddy might remember, but if not and there isn't a wire hanging around there loose I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks, I already purchased some 5W-50 Mobil One oil and a Wix 51357 oil filter along with some NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs so will just run them.

I spoke with my buddy and he wasn't sure what the ground was to but did tell me that they had a light bar installed before and some other accessories that are no longer on it so I'm sure the ground went to one of those items.

New fuel pump and wire harness arrives today, hopefully I have time to get them installed and get some fresh fuel and see if it turns on. I have options to run just regular, premium or ethanol free gasoline. What is best to use on these machines?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Update. Installed the new fuel pump and wire harness. Engine still doesn’t turn on. I checked for spark with a tester and it was good. I hear the fuel pump priming. I disconnected the fuel line that goes to the engine to make sure fuel was coming out and it was. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge to test pressure. I cleaned the TBAP sensor and tried spraying starting fluid into the intake with the air filter removed and no luck. Any advice and guidance would be much appreciated
 

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If you are getting spark and fuel the next thing I would check would be compression. With spark and fuel in the cylinder the only other thing it needs to fire is to be able to have air enter and leave the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Thanks, going to purchase a compression tester. I’d still like to check the fuel pressure, this machine doesn’t use the same type of connection to test fuel like on automotive. What type of fuel pressure tester do I need?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
What's the proper way of doing this compression test? Do I remove both spark plugs before doing the compression test or just one at a time and do I need to press the gas pedal down while doing the test?
 

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I'd probably get a service manual at this point, as IME those tests and the expected values should be in there. I don't have any first hand experience with that engine so can't give any help with specifics. Other things to check would be valve clearances and timing.
 

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Did you determine which engine this has? You might also spend some time on the rzrforums.net to see if there is any info on that size engine. Rzr and Ranger engine's should be the same or very similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
What type of fuel pressure tester is needed on these Rangers? It doesn't use the same type of fitting like the automotive one. Looking to purchase one locally if possible to check the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Needs your opinion here fellas, I need to purchase a compression tester and fuel pressure gauge to do some checks which will cost me around $100 or so. I found a local guy who works on these machines and has good reviews. He has everything needed to diagnosis the ranger and will cost me about the same amount of money. I'm debating if it would make more sense to just drop it off with him and let him check it or spend the money on the tools and possible get me nowhere.
 

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That's more of a personal preference and how far down the rabbit hole you're wanting/willing to go. For me, I consider the wrenching and learning a hobby within a hobby (this one as well as others) so I'd get the tools and dig in. But I also realize that's not for everyone.
 

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I would personally take one spark plug out at a time and stick my finger in that cylinder to see if you are getting exhaust and intake. You should be able to feel if you have a major problem. If you have decent exhaust and intake it should at least attempt to fire. You will need another person to bump the key but it will be a quick way to get an idea. You can worry about an actual compression tester later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I hear ya, it's what I normally do. I'm more pressed for time of trying to get it going as soon as possible. I have the garage space right now due to my car being at the body shop but once I get it back then the Ranger will have to go to my brothers house where I will not be able to work on it. I'll probably work on it a little more and see if I can get closer to figuring it out and if all else fails then I will take it to someone to check it over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I would personally take one spark plug out at a time and stick my finger in that cylinder to see if you are getting exhaust and intake. You should be able to feel if you have a major problem. If you have decent exhaust and intake it should at least attempt to fire. You will need another person to bump the key but it will be a quick way to get an idea. You can worry about an actual compression tester later.
I give this a try, I also want to pull the injectors off the engine while still attached to the fuel rail and see if they are pumping out fuel with the key on.
 

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Well if you don't have compression you know you will be tearing down the engine. If you have intake and exhaust pressure then that only leaves spark and fuel. If you got compression spray same ether in the chamber. If you have spark and compression it should at least fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
My buddy has a compression tester so going to borrow it and see what I get. I'm guessing no or low compression is worst case scenario huh. I have no idea what a engine rebuild would cost so would most likely sell it as is and move on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Compression is not good. Got 90 psi on the drivers side and 60 psi on the passenger side.

Update. Well I got it running. I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal and adjust the throttle cable under the seat to where it’s idling around 1200 rpm. It won’t shift while the engine is running though. Have to turn it off, shift it then turn it back on. The rear axle boots are torn and when I drive it they pop. Any advice on what’s going on with the no shifting while on and do the whole axles need replacement?

Compression is at 140 psi drivers side and 130 psi on passenger side now that it’s running.
 
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