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That's great!! I would run some sea foam in the gas and in the oil. Follow the instructions and it should help. I am at a loss of why it won't shift. Hopefully someone else can help with that.
 

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Most likely a clutch issue for the shifting while running. If I had to guess without being there and looking at it, I would say it's likely the bearing on the primary clutch is seized. If you open the clutch cover and watch, the belt should be stopped (or able to be stopped by hand) when the engine is running but the trans is in P or N. There is a bearing on the primary shaft that lets the primary spin while the belt rides on the bearing. If the bearing seizes up it basically grabs the belt as the primary spins and won't let the trans shift. If you do get it to shift into gear it will instantly lurch forward (or backward) as it's like shifting into gear while running.

Video that will explain it better than I can, also a great source to learn how the clutches work and what to look out for. More geared to the RZR lineup but the RNG lineup uses the same seetups.

HD Primary Bearing Video
 

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Not sure on the specifics of that model, but IIRC 1000-1200 rpm range should be typical.

When you remove the cover, if the belt is being driven by the primary at idle in P, then the next step is to take the belt off and check the bearing by hand. You should be able to reach in the bottom of the sheaves and spin the bearing. If it's locked up or gritty, it needs to be changed. It may be cheaper to get a whole new primary than the parts and tools to repair it though. This would be a good job to take to the mechanic if they have to tools and knowledge to repair. There are videos on Hunterworks site that do a good job of explaining this stuff so you know what to look for and how it all works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
If I remove the belt can I reinstall it for the mean time while I gather the funds for all the parts needed? I want to get some new axles for the front and rear. I was looking at the Sixity XT kit which includes front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Looking at axles and came across some by Tusk, ADR, East Lake and Sixity. All priced around the same. Anyone have any experience with any of these? Just looking for stock replacement that won’t break the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
For the love of God! Would you please buy a service manual! It's not a 570, it's a 700. You should also try Google. It's your friend.
I have a service manual. And I know it’s not a 570. Google is great. What’s the point of a forum if everything is on google. Thanks for your input.
 

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Belt - I would pull it and clean it with mild soap and water and inspect it. If there are no signs of heavy glazing or chunks missing, by all means go ahead and keep using it. Ideally, if you don't have a spare, I'd get a new belt and keep that as a spare, but that can wait until you get it fixed up and running reliably.

Axles - I would trust Tusk to be as good as stock, but I would recommend SuperATV Rhino 2.0s if available and you're going to spend the money. Again, I wouldn't invest in these upgrades until you get it running reliably first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 · (Edited)
Thanks, going to remove the belt so I can check to see if the bearing spins freely. I plan on purchasing a new belt because I'm pretty sure it's the original belt and was never replaced. I need to change the fluids as well. Oil looked pretty dirty and pretty sure none of the fluids have been serviced.

The manual calls for PS-4 oil which I know is 5W-50. I've read lots of folks using Rotella T6 5W-40 in place of it with no issues. I happen to have some T6 on hand, any reasons why it would be a bad idea to run it? Is there any alternatives to AGL, demand drive and angle drive fluids or best to stick with them?
 

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The bearing can be replaced, but it takes special tools and they can be expensive. I'd check with the local mechanic you found to see if they can do it, or call Hunterworks and see what the price difference is between a new one and sending yours to be rebuilt
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Thanks, going to call around to see if there is anyone local who could replace the bearing. But what is the possibility that there is other parts on the clutch that would need replacing due to never being serviced? Are there rebuild kits for these clutches that would address most of the common parts that get wore out? Will also give hunterworks a call and see what they say.
 

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There are wear components and there are areas to check that can't be fixed if out of spec, you have to tear the whole thing down to replace that bearing so a rebuild with fresh parts would be a good idea. The weights, the bolts that hold the weights, the rollers, and the buttons can be replaced. Beware cheap chinese parts though and get quality. Buying from a reputable source like Hunterworks will get you what you want. The clutch surfaces look good, so I'd suspect the clutch to otherwise be in good serviceable condition. Unless a worn part caused unseen damage, which again I don't think likely since most of the issues from this are due to it sitting and clutch wear is due to being run hard and put away wet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Thanks, I called around with not much luck. The local dealer said they can rebuild it and labor starts at $275 plus parts but they are 6-8 weeks backed up. I decided to just order one from Harvey's ATV Parts and see how it goes. I still plan on having mine rebuilt a little later and use it as a back up. The machine won't be used much so hopefully I'll be good for a while. I was able to get the clutch and removal tool from them for under $275. Time will tell if it was a mistake.
2005-2009 Polaris Ranger 700 & XP - Primary Clutch – Harvey's ATV Parts (harveysatvparts.com)
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Anyone have a picture of how the throttle cable is routed under the seat on a ranger like mine? I looked in the service manual with no luck and believe that it is routed incorrectly at the moment.
 
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