[StinkerBean]

Installed the new mother clutcher and polaris belt today. I can now shift with the engine running. Still have a few things to address. Pretty sure the steering rack needs to be replaced and the wheel bearings.

 

[StinkerBean]

I noticed that at times it can still be a little hard to shift into gear at times. I'm not real sure how easily it should shift into and out of gears while running. To me it feels like it's a hard shift at times. Should these machines easily shift into and out of gear or does it take a little effort?

I have fresh fluid in the transmission. I removed the cable from the transmission to see if the cable felt tough belt it was pretty smooth. I did not check for belt alignment when I replaced the clutch. Is that something that could cause issues with shifting if it is misaligned?

 

[CrazyElecE]

alignment can cause issues, yes. belt needs to be centered so that the edge isn't dragging on the clutch sheave. The big thing is to have a gap so it's not pinched by both sheaves, but if it's too far out of alignment it can still bind and grab on one sheave.

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks, I'm going to pull the cover later today and check for alignment.

 

[JT29]

They can be hard to shift... numerous complaints about hard shifting. Guys breaking the shift lever trying to shift them
on new machines

 

[StinkerBean]

I believe that I have an alignment issue with the belt. With the cover off the belt is touching the inside sheave. The manual calls for alignment washers to be used. They give two different sizes. Should I purchase both sizes to see which works the best?

Also, when at idle should the secondary clutch be spinning at all? Mine spins a little here and there but wondering if it’s due to the belt touching the sheave.

 

[StinkerBean]

I spent some time yesterday looking over the ranger after driving it. I know there is a alignment issue with the belt that I plan on addressing. I've had a rattling noise coming from somewhere towards the front end and I think I finally found the issue which is a very worn out universal joint on the front prop shaft. I was able to remove the cover on the floor board and grab the shaft. When moving it around I can hear the rattling pretty loud and then looked and could see the bad universal joint. I did some research and it appears that the I can just get some from my local auto parts store which are NAPA #UJ338.

My steering rack is shot as well, seems like the RackBoss is the go to replacement. I'm trying to keep cost down on this project and wondering if there is any other steering rack that would cost less and work as the OEM does? This machine will be used rarely and just for normal driving around.

I'm planning on replacing all the axles with some from East Lake Axle along with their wheel bearings. They carry a 2 year warranty which seems pretty good.

 

[CrazyElecE]

Check the carrier bearing on the prop shaft as well, while you are at it.

 

[StinkerBean]

Looking on Partzilla and can't locate the carrier bearing. Is it part of the shaft?

 

[CrazyElecE]

Looks like that model might not have one I guess, one less thing to worry about

 

[StinkerBean]

I was going crazy looking for it.

 

[StinkerBean]

Is there a difference in axles between crew and non crew? Looking at some new axles from East Lake but when reading the description it states 2005-2008 Polaris 700 Ranger XP Non Crew Models and I have a 2009.

Polaris 500 570 700 Ranger Front Axle Set 2006-2020

Check out the deal on Polaris 500 570 700 Ranger Front Axle Set 2006-2020 at eastlakeaxle.com

www.eastlakeaxle.com

 

[StinkerBean]

I found the correct ones. Had to use the OEM part numbers to cross reference them.

 

[StinkerBean]

Going to attempt replacing the U-joints on the prop shaft. Just ordered some from NAPA along with a new Rack Boss from SuperATV and axles with wheel bearings from East Lake. My plans are to remove the front bumper, axles, steering rack and unbolt the front diff to remove it along with the prop shaft installed. Then I can get the shaft off while on the ground and replace the U-joints. I'm pretty sure it will not go as planned though. Any other tips or advice would be much appreciated.

 

[CrazyElecE]

I'm not sure how the prop shaft is mounted to the front diff on that one, but if it is a roll pin a 1/4" punch and air hammer is the best way to remove it.

Like this

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks, it is mounted with a roll pin. I like the idea of the air hammer but not sure if my small 6 gallon compressor will be enough to use it with. Most of my tools are cordless Milwaukee or Dewalt stuff.

 

[CrazyElecE]

It would be worth renting an AC, that pin is a pain in the ass any other way but a air hammer buzzes it out in a couple mins. I'd try the 6gal first though, might be surprised, I've run mine in short bursts off my small trim nail compressor. It's small so it's the one that lives in the trailer.

 

[StinkerBean]

Thanks man I will give it a try. I can always swing by a buddies place and use his compressor if needed. I'm nervous and excited at the same time to tackle this job since I've never touched one of these side by sides. I am learning a lot though.

 

[StinkerBean]

I'm not sure how the prop shaft is mounted to the front diff on that one, but if it is a roll pin a 1/4" punch and air hammer is the best way to remove it.

Like this

Where did you find that 1/4" punch set? I'm having a hard time finding one locally.

 

[CrazyElecE]

Just a google image search but you can get from Amazon, you might be able to find them at a local industrial supplier like Grainger if you have one in your area. It's a 1/4" roll pin punch that you need if you're searching.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Tools-31950HT-Pneumatic-Punch/dp/B07K7B4NZC