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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I noticed that at times it can still be a little hard to shift into gear at times. I'm not real sure how easily it should shift into and out of gears while running. To me it feels like it's a hard shift at times. Should these machines easily shift into and out of gear or does it take a little effort?

I have fresh fluid in the transmission. I removed the cable from the transmission to see if the cable felt tough belt it was pretty smooth. I did not check for belt alignment when I replaced the clutch. Is that something that could cause issues with shifting if it is misaligned?
 

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alignment can cause issues, yes. belt needs to be centered so that the edge isn't dragging on the clutch sheave. The big thing is to have a gap so it's not pinched by both sheaves, but if it's too far out of alignment it can still bind and grab on one sheave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I believe that I have an alignment issue with the belt. With the cover off the belt is touching the inside sheave. The manual calls for alignment washers to be used. They give two different sizes. Should I purchase both sizes to see which works the best?

Also, when at idle should the secondary clutch be spinning at all? Mine spins a little here and there but wondering if it’s due to the belt touching the sheave.

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
I spent some time yesterday looking over the ranger after driving it. I know there is a alignment issue with the belt that I plan on addressing. I've had a rattling noise coming from somewhere towards the front end and I think I finally found the issue which is a very worn out universal joint on the front prop shaft. I was able to remove the cover on the floor board and grab the shaft. When moving it around I can hear the rattling pretty loud and then looked and could see the bad universal joint. I did some research and it appears that the I can just get some from my local auto parts store which are NAPA #UJ338.

My steering rack is shot as well, seems like the RackBoss is the go to replacement. I'm trying to keep cost down on this project and wondering if there is any other steering rack that would cost less and work as the OEM does? This machine will be used rarely and just for normal driving around.

I'm planning on replacing all the axles with some from East Lake Axle along with their wheel bearings. They carry a 2 year warranty which seems pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Is there a difference in axles between crew and non crew? Looking at some new axles from East Lake but when reading the description it states 2005-2008 Polaris 700 Ranger XP Non Crew Models and I have a 2009.


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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Going to attempt replacing the U-joints on the prop shaft. Just ordered some from NAPA along with a new Rack Boss from SuperATV and axles with wheel bearings from East Lake. My plans are to remove the front bumper, axles, steering rack and unbolt the front diff to remove it along with the prop shaft installed. Then I can get the shaft off while on the ground and replace the U-joints. I'm pretty sure it will not go as planned though. Any other tips or advice would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Thanks, it is mounted with a roll pin. I like the idea of the air hammer but not sure if my small 6 gallon compressor will be enough to use it with. Most of my tools are cordless Milwaukee or Dewalt stuff.
 

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It would be worth renting an AC, that pin is a pain in the ass any other way but a air hammer buzzes it out in a couple mins. I'd try the 6gal first though, might be surprised, I've run mine in short bursts off my small trim nail compressor. It's small so it's the one that lives in the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Thanks man I will give it a try. I can always swing by a buddies place and use his compressor if needed. I'm nervous and excited at the same time to tackle this job since I've never touched one of these side by sides. I am learning a lot though.
 
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