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Finally got my EV to the shop. They said the motor had seized and needs to be replaced. Where’s the best place to buy a drive motor?
 

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Try this. There is also a company that rebuilds them
 

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If its seized, thats bearing failure, as long as its nothing more and the windings are OK, then it could be fairly cheaply rebuilt with new bearings, Dont forget the rear one is the encoder bearing these are not cheap. But are supplied by Polaris, if the actual part isnt available.

With all motor bearings , they must be motor rated, they are designed to run at higher RPM and have greater initial clearance to allow for hotter running and expansion. Never use cheap std bearings.
 

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If its seized, thats bearing failure, as long as its nothing more and the windings are OK, then it could be fairly cheaply rebuilt with new bearings, Dont forget the rear one is the encoder bearing these are not cheap. But are supplied by Polaris, if the actual part isnt available.

With all motor bearings , they must be motor rated, they are designed to run at higher RPM and have greater initial clearance to allow for hotter running and expansion. Never use cheap std bearings.
Can you provide a source for the statement about "motor rated" bearings? I have never heard of this specification in any US manufacturers literature. I'm not saying it's wrong but its new info and I'd like to learn more. I have heard ball finish, race finish, ball roundness specs, cage style, seal style/material, but not the spec you speak of. Didn't see anything in a quick google search.
 

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Motor rating was a term I gained from my local bearing supplier. This is fairly useful.
https://www.ahrinternational.com/bearing_radial_clearance_explained.htm
All the EV motors I work on, Mainly HPEVS, have C3 clearance deep groove ball bearings. The std bearing is CN and is a tighter clearance. Some small size / power motors use closer clearance bearings to reduce noise. In general EV motors (and many industrial) have one fixed bearing and one that has a wavy or wobbly washer to give an end load on the bearings , this stops the bearing inner race in effect rattling around the outer race until they have warmed up and clearances are reduced.

This is also fairly helpful.

https://www.bearingworks.com/technical-data/internal-clearance.php
Ultimately you should replace bearings with the same spec as the makers used. So dont just buy the correct size off ebay, check the full spec normally etched on the side of the outer race. I tend not to buy cheap bearings but buy high spec well known makes such as SKF, FAG etc They also cover the full range of seals and have the C range required. The point was out to me by my supplier, that a specific C spec, will also mean the makers use balls of closer similarity/ closer manufacturing tolerances, the CN grade especially with cheap bearings can have some internal variation causing uneven loads/ wear.

Most motors seem also to use double rubber seal bearings (where they are not immersed in oil) again go for what the motor manufacturer originally used.
 
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