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Trailer Recommendation

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46K views 44 replies 27 participants last post by  philztoy  
#1 ·
Looks like I got plenty of time to figure this out but I know absolutely Jack about trailers. Looking for a trailer that would be good for hauling a polaris ranger crew. Not sure if one is better then the other or what sizes I should be looking for. What do you guys recommend?
 
#7 ·
I built a tandem 72" x120" that will just fit my Ranger (when and if I ever see it...) I also built it so I can haul a small excavator when I need to borrow one. It was built it to fit in the shop out of the weather. A ramp in my opinion is the only way to go. Think where you are going to store it. Most "store bought" trailers I would never leave outside since the paint seems to disappear almost overnight and they start to rust. If I was buying one, I would lean hard towards an aluminum one. But, I cannot weld aluminum well enough so I stuck with steel.
 
#8 ·
I have a 2019 Northstar Crew that I trailer quite a bit. Several issues to consider. 1) The side rails on my BigTex trailer were too high to allow the doors on the unit to open so I ended up putting a 2" Polaris lift kit on the unit, problem solved. 2) I have had several single-axle trailers and went with a dual-alxe this time, much better and brakes are great. 3) The crew, with a front and rear bumper fits easily on a 14' trailer but a 16' trailer would allow a little more space for a toolbox, jack, etc. and 4) I like a little wider stance on the Polaris so it has 1" spacers on the wheels. Trailer is 77" and has enough space to load and unload without issues. Just have to be careful pulling it as it is about the same width as my F-150.
 
#10 ·
My favorites are, in this order: Floe Versamax, Mission, Aluma. I'm a big fan of Floe because of:
1. the extruded channels in the floor which allow moving the tie-downs to any location.
2. the tailgate that lays flat on the trailer bed for transport if you're just storing or transporting smaller items.
3. available sides that come off to act as side ramps for side-loading 4-wheelers and other equipment.
4. brakes available.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
#13 ·
i bought a custom made 18 foot trailer with a box on the front. Dual axle 14,000 LB with brakes. i had them flip the axles to the bottom of the leaf springs for additional clearance and put D rings and truckers attachment rails on the side and paint it a tan same as my 3/4 ton F250. I can load it with my 900xp, 500 HO and a small trailer I tow behind my Ranger And there is room for gas/water cans and much more.
cost me half of what a big Tex trailer would have and I have exactly what I want.
I can also put a backhoe or a full size truck on it.
check out your local trailer manufacturers and you might be surprised.
 
#14 ·
I just purchased a new trailer (H & H trailer ) and really like it for my XP 1000. My last trailer (14' Parker Big Dog) was just that ! The axle was a fixed welded axle and no leafs, thus the wheels were just a tad off of alignment and no way to adjust them, so I found myself getting new tires after about every 5-6 long trips. One tire would cup inside and the other would cup outside. This new trailer has a real axle and leaf springs with 15" radial tires and rides great.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I did what I tell people to NEVER do. I went cheap with a Lowe's (forgot the actual manufacturer) 6' X 16' trailer. I didn't pay attention when I initially ordered it, and it's got 2' sides all the way around, and ramp that only supports 1,000lbs. according to their website. I've got a NorthStar ordered, so the doors will be an issue opening and closing. I'm not going to do the "Duke Boys" crap of going through the window, so I'll take it to a fab shop and have them install a hinged gate that will swing out when I need to open the side by side door, so I can enter and exit the machine. I also don't believe the gate will support a 2,500lb. (?) machine, so I'll probably cut the ramp off and buy a set of aluminum ramps to load/unload the machine. I did get dual axles, as I always have believed in them, and the ability to limp home or wherever I need to go if I do get a flat on one of them. The reason I went cheap on the trailer was because I just spent 31K on the machine, and I also have a 12,000 dollar gooseneck ordered, and I just got tired of hemorrhaging money. But I should have taken my own advice and not went cheap on the UTV trailer, because it's already causing me to modify it when it gets here, and costing more money than I had planned on. Lesson learned.
 
#17 ·
I did what I tell people to NEVER do. I went cheap with a Lowe's (forgot the actual manufacturer) 6' X 16' trailer. I didn't pay attention when I initially ordered it, and it's got 2' sides all the way around, and ramp that only supports 1,000lbs. according to their website. I've got a NorthStar ordered, so the doors will be an issue opening and closing. I'm not going to do the "Duke Boys" crap of going through the window, so I'll take it to a fab shop and have them install a hinged gate that will swing out when I need to open the side by side door, so I can enter and exit the machine. I also don't believe the gate will support a 2,500lb. (?) machine, so I'll probably cute the ramp off and buy a set of aluminum ramps to load/unload the machine. I did get dual axles, as I always have believed in them, and the ability to limp home or wherever I need to go if I do get a flat on one of them. The reason I went cheap on the trailer was because I just spent 31K on the machine, and I also have a 12,000 dollar gooseneck ordered, and I just got tired of hemorrhaging money. But I should have taken my own advice and not went cheap on the UTV trailer, because it's already causing me to modify it when it gets here, and costing more money than I had planned on. Lesson learned.
Before I got carried away with the ramp, I would try it a couple of times and check for deflection. I suspect that the mfg. will hedge what the ramp will hold so when nincompoop runs an excavator up it and crushes it they can say; "we told you so."
 
#23 ·
Tons of trailer options as posted…I have an 18’ pipe top tandem that I got years ago when prices were good. I recently bought aluminum HD ramps which are rated for 7000 lbs and super light. I do not like the fold up mounted ramps since they’re in the way when you need to haul something longer than trailer. Plus there like a wind brake.

my advice is to get a trailer that will fit all your needs, not just the UTV. You don’t need an 18’ for the crew but I wouldn’t go less than 16’ tandem. I’m going to be adding brakes to mine so in hindsight I should’ve added those at purchase.
 
#24 · (Edited)
You can consider the RV brand from Forest River. In my opinion, Forest River has some outstanding features to distinguish it from other brands. They demand strict standards for their products. These automobiles are subjected to additional review to make sure that each model meets all criteria, including pipework, electrical and LP systems, cosmetics, rain bay, function, navigator, as well as other miscellaneous tests.
 
#26 ·
You can consider the RV brand from Forest River. In my opinion, Forest River has some outstanding features to distinguish it from other brands. They demand strict standards for their products. These automobiles are subjected to additional review to make sure that each model meets all criteria, including pipework, electrical and LP systems, cosmetics, rain bay, function, navigator, as well as other miscellaneous tests.

odd first post...
 
#31 ·
First, what is your budget? I would stay away from Lowes trailers. They usually come with tiny tires, and weak axels. Depending on where you located, we have places like Leonard's Trailer & Buildings that usually keeps what you need in stock. If possible, I would try to get a tandem axel if budget permits, and at least 15" rims in any trailer. Also Google trailer sales in your area. We have a few small dealers that will go cheaper than a place like Leonard's.
 
#34 ·
I wish I had purchased a enclosed trailer. I went with a aluminum utility trailer to save money, only to have a shed built to store the ranger during the winter. Had I bought the enclosed trailer I could have kept it in the trailer for a lot less money.
 
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#35 ·
You might have saved money in the front end, but you eventually would have needed a shed. At least in many parts of North America. Enclosed trailers leak sooner or later. Besides, you can work easily on your buggy in a shed, it isn't so easy in a trailer. Better yet, you get more space to store "stuff" in a shed. Not much excess storage in an enclosed trailer.