[Islander]

Okay so I checked all the grounds on the grounding block traced a bunch of wires, check continuity everything seems pretty good. Then I pulled the new ECM out I noticed the fourth prong over on the bottom side looked a little funny. almost like It had a coating on it. I pulled the plastic cover off The harness that plugs into the ECM on the power side. There was a little bit of melted plastic around the fourth prong which happened to be a big brown wire. You could see where it had been arcing. I traced the wire and it's the ground wire for the harness I think. So I cleaned it up ! Squeezed it together a little bit so it made a tighter connection. Plugged the ECM back in and voilà!! It starts right up works great and the only code I have is a 54 and the yellow wrench lite is still on. But now the Ranger runs great ran it around the property today did a lot of work with it and it seems to be starting and stopping fine. Thanks islander you were correct it was a ground I believe. I have a full-size car battery in the Ranger mounted right above the radiator , fully charged so I knew it wasn't a power issue in that respect. The small battery that came with the unit wasn't enough to run the winch when you need it. Thanks for your help. Now I just need to get rid of this code 54 and fix that issue.��

Excellent Choo and letting us know back will help dozens of others with suspected ECM problems. Thank you for that ;D

 

[Islander]

Same problem now
I have a 2005 700 EFI and I just replaced the ECM on it. I did this a week ago yesterday and the vehicle ran fine all week long. Yesterday my son-in-law was going to get some hay out of the field with it. And it stopped dead in the middle of the field. He said he turned the key and started it then it would run a few seconds and die when I got home from work the same thing happened to me it would start then die it would start then die. I got it running revved up and drove in about 10 feet it would die I kept doing this until I got up to the house. Sometimes it would sputter, stall and start going again almost like there was a loose electrical connection. When I got the vehicle in the barn I turned the key three times to check the codes. The lights started blinking there was clicking underneath of the seat there was a humming noise coming from in the fuel tank I'm sure was the fuel pump. The lights would blink on and off, the fan would kick off and on just like a turn signal only quicker. I cannot figure this thing out I've taken the hood off the compartment by the seat out to look at the power control module under the seat. I would hate to think that I just spent $250 on an ECM and now it's bad that quickly. I think I'm going to head to the dealer this morning to buy a new ignition switch although it looks fine. I don't like that about the ECM most rangers would be on the second or third one by now. Hasn't Polaris been able to make a new one that will not burn out? I talked to a mechanic at the polaris dealership this morning. He thinks I have a bad ECM ( New one I just got from partzilla last week). Now what do I do ? Buy another one????

Choo, check all your battery connections and all the grounds . Take the battery into Auto Zone or somewhere and have them test it for free. Check the connector plugs at the new ECM for burnt/melted etc. I have never seen a new ECM go bad in that short time. Make sure that battery is good. That box under the seat is the ECU (computer) .......Let us know........

 

[Islander]

islander thanks for posting that i just did mine and set the idle at .528 and it had a miss just off idle i think those specs will cure it

Glad it helped you but the credit for the TPS Adjustments piece goes to Commander Jones.

 

[Islander]

Thank you islander for all your help. The Ranger runs great however I still have a small issue. Yellow wrench light is lit continuously and I still have a code 54 left. Is the yellow wrench light lit because of the code 54. I disconnected the negative cable on the battery and as you said the codes went away except for 54 after I've run the engine again 54 came back 51 and 52 did not. When I bought this ranger , used, I knew very little about them other than the fact that I thought for sure I wanted one. I am becoming a fast learner on these and the technical advice you have given me is priceless. I am very very thankful for all of your help islander, you are a true proffesional.?

CC, 54 is the ENGINE TEMP LAMP code and yes it will keep wrench light glowing. Probably just a bulb or possible disconnection. You can trace it down or ignore it but be wary of overheating as you will have no warning light. Thanks for the thanks and congratulations to you for wading in and getting your Ranger back on the road. You have done well.

 

[Islander]

Loosened the screw on the base . It seems to run good now but not sure how to set it. I thought I read somewhere you can set it with a voltmeter. Is that true? Also when I started working on this ranger the check engine light with the wrench on it never came on. And my searching for the trouble with this thing I noticed that light was unplugged. Then plug it in and acquired the codes as you told me Islander. Now that I got the thing running everything seems to be working properly except for that yellow wrench light stays on all the time. Also I'm getting codes 51, 52, and 54 again

You need to clear the codes by removing the ground on the battery again. When fixed that is the only way to clear them permanently.

The TPS setting/s are a two step process with the base setting first at .528 volts DC and then the FLOW setting @ .710 volts DC with the 'D' screw on top of the throttle body. These are the settings for an 2005 700.
Here is the procedure and you need to do both settings (LONG VERSION FIRST as you loosened the base and then the SHORT VERSION to reset the flow on top (D) screw.

Short Version.....adjusting the idle voltage
(1) Find the yellow wire leading to the TPS and carefully pierce the insullation with the positive lead of your multimeter (make sure that you seal that bare spot when finished). If you want to do it "right" and not pierce the wire insullation, you can buy the Polaris TPS adjustment harness (Polaris part # 2201519-A), which simply "T's" into the existing harness plug.
(2) Connect the negative lead of your meter to a good ground on the Ranger (the engine will work.....no need to go all the way to the battery).
(3) Set your multimeter to the lowest setting that you have above .660 volts to get the most accurate reading (many have a 2 volt setting and that will work great).
(4) Turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should be seeing .710 volts +/- .010 volts for your '05 . If the voltage is outside of that range, turn the idle voltage adjustment screw on the left front of the throttle body (right above the throttle cable) until you have the desired voltage.

Although the screw is designed to require a special tool (Polaris part # PU-47315), it can be done with needle nose pliers. You can buy a cheaper version than the Polaris tool here Everything to make you "Go Fast"
(5) After the desired setting is achieved, seal and lock the screw with some thread sealant or finger nail polish to prevent it from rattling out of adjustment.

Long Version.....adjusting the base voltage
Typically this would only be done if the base voltage screw on the TPS has been tampered with, the TPS has been replaced, or you have reason to believe this step needs to be done (or if you're at the end of your rope and have ruled out everything else).
(1) Remove throttle cable cover on the side of the throttle body and then disconnect the throttle cable. Be careful to not drop the brass barrel on the end of the cable. That part cannot be bought separately from the T/B if you lose it (don't ask how I know

).
(2) Back off the idle set screw until it no longer makes contact with the throttle cable cam. This should allow the butterfly to close completely.
(3) Clean the butterfly inside the T/B with carb cleaner and make sure that it closes completely (that's important for accurate readings).
(4) Check the operation range of the TPS. Using the same probe connections as above, change your meter to the lowest setting that you have above 3.6 volts (this will be 12 volts on most meters). Keep in mind this is a very sensitive sensor and very slight movements will produce large changes. It should go smoothly from 0 volts closed to 3.6 volts at WOT (wide open throttle). It should do so very smoothly, without any gaps, peaks, or valleys. If it has an abrupt jump or drop in voltage within a very small movement area, the sensor may be bad and needs to be replaced.
(5) To set the base voltage, varify that the butterfly is completely closed, loosen the torx screw on the TPS

and rotate the sensor until you reach .528 volts. Tighten the screw down and varify the voltage again, making sure that the butterfly is completely closed for that reading. This is a difficult step because the sensor wants to move as you tighten down the set screw.
(6) Reinstall the throttle cable and cover, then adjust the idle voltage to .710 volts as described above in the "short version".

Doing the adjustments are typically easier if you have a second person to hold the meter probes........unless you're luck enough to have the type of probe that can hold itself in place while piercing the wire insullation.

 

[Islander]

Got My new ECM today from partzilla. Installed it and turned the key. The first three times the engine started and stalled. My heart was sinking fast, but on the Fourth try the engine started and ran and purred like a kitten. Let it run a couple minutes revved it up a little bit and now I have an issue. All the monkeying around with all the components on the engine to try figure out why it wouldn't run, I got the throttle position sensor TPS out of adjustment and It smells real rich when it's running. I tried by ear and have it running pretty good but I feel it could run better. Any ideas???

Got codes ? Did you loosen the base and turn or did you turn the 'D' adjustment screw on top of the TPS ?

 

[Islander]

Yes I did check the red with white stripe wire and yes it does have power when the key is turned on. I had a long conversation with the polaris mechanic ,( used to be) , for over 20 years. He reiterated exactly what islander said. These machines are notorious for having bad ECM' s. Particularly 04 thru 07. Polaris knew of the problems but couldn't find a fix. They even developed a scan that was supposed to look for possible trouble ECM 's but that proved to be a bust in the end. I ordered a new ECM and after I install it I'll let you guys know what happens. Till then I'll keep my fingers crossed. Wish me luck!!

You don't need luck now Choo, money will fix it....;D

 

[Islander]

Bad ecm (power module) 4011090

Choo, that is highly irregular as the fan should not come on AT ALL until the engine is at 194 degrees.

After some careful contemplation, I am confident that your ECM (power module) is causing your problem. It's a tough call as both parts are spendy so I don't like to make the call unless I am certain. About $236.00 at checkout @ www.partzilla.com
QTY PRICE 4011090 MODULE-700 ECM 1 $236.42 SUBTOTAL: $236.42

The fan problem along with the dead dash other symptoms cinched it.

​

 

[Islander]

I don't know anyone with any Ranger parts , this is my first. I will say that when I would turn the key on to do the code light test sometimes the fan would come on sometimes the fan would not. For instance this afternoon when I turned the key to Try and start the Ranger after I had checked the plugs on the ECU The fan would run almost every time I turned the key on. After little monkeying around trying different things I would turn the key on and start the vehicle again,and the fan did not come on several times. It's like it's hit and miss.

Choo, that is highly irregular as the fan should not come on AT ALL until the engine is at 194 degrees.

 

[Islander]

Yes, removed ECM unplugged both connections looked for corroded or bad pins and connections, but they actually look real good, like new. Plugged it back in re-attached ECM to frame.connected battery, tried to start ranger. It starts ,runs for 3 seconds, then dies and all the lights on the dash go out when it dies.almost as if it was not getting any power. I tried restarting it several times with the same result. So just for kicks I thought I'd check for codes and guess what? That's right 51, 52, and 54 All are back. It's enough to make a guy pull his hair out. What do you think islander? Could the ECM be shot.?? Aahhhh!

It could be the ECM or the ECU and they are both a bit spendy and they won't take them back once you have purchased them. Even the manual suggests swapping them out with known good ones ( a friends for example) to see what is good/bad. No actual test for them. Normally the bad ECM starts out with no fan function and then things stop working gradually until no power comes out of it. which is a dead giveaway but you never mentioned a problem with your fan. At this point you almost have to start throwing parts at it
These guys are the cheapest most reliable I have found....Partzilla.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki Polaris, Suzuki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP

 

[Islander]

Now it is Saturday morning, and I have pulled the storage box out of the driver side of the vehicle. There is an electronic module near the EFI test port. I unplugged the main connection checked the pins and sockets they're all nice and clean. I then plugged it back in ran a test for codes and got one code 54. The 51 and 52 code have disappeared. 54 called the way I understand it has something to do with the thermostat or temperature sensor. I wonder, is it possible the temperature sensor is bad and is there way to test that?

Have you checked the ECM connection under the hood ?

 

[Islander]

Ok so I have switched the connections on the injectors and disconnected the neg terminal on the battery,waited a minute and reconnected the battery and tried to start then ranger. Same symptom starts and stalls. Now I have Four codes...51, 52, 54, 61 I've read that the 61 is a signal that the codes have been seen and denotes the end on the scan. 51 & 52 injector codes. But I'm not sure about 54. Is it possible there is one wire causing all of this or is the ECM module the real culprit. Now I'm at a real loss as to how to solve this and get this thing running.

Choo, 54 is just your engine temp light, probably just the bulb. Fuel pressure is critical on these 700 engines. It MUST be 39 psi +/-3 lbs or you will have a problem. You can buy a FP tester or just replace the pump with this onehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ranger-500-700-800-fuel-pump-with-filter-upgrade-kit-/190888108720?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c71d162b0&vxp=mtr which is cheaper.

 

[Islander]

Thanks for the heads up on the codes. A bit of a rookie and I did not know that. I did the code check with the key I get five blinks pause and then one for 51. Is there a place to look up these codes or what does that tell you?

Choo, 51 is #1 Injector --open load or short to ground code. I would clear it from the computer by removing the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to make sure it is not an old code. Then see if it reappears. 51 is a tough code because sometimes it is a a bad injector or a busted wire going to the injector and sometimes even low fuel pressure will throw a 51. If it reappears, I would swap the connector/leads to the injectors and see if code 52 comes up which is #2 Injector open load or short to ground. That would confirm it is probably an injector problem of some kind..

 

[Islander]

I have checked the battery connections, they are good, Throttlebody flange looks solid and has good seating on head. One thing I have noticed though when I turn the key and it starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds the dash lights go out when it shuts off. This is a 2005 and just has the wrench light on the dash which is not lit or does not blink. I do not have a scanner to scan for codes. It almost seems like an electrical issue, As if the injectors were being shut off For lack of electrical current. If this is the case would the ECM be faulty. Is there a way to test or check the ECM

The ECM (power module) a large aluminum box with fins, (under the hood) on the passenger side, has been a real problem on '05 and '06s as all electrical function is routed through it. They have a history of burning pins in the connector plugs. I would pull the connectors to the box and have a look for burnt/melted pins/wire. To check EFI codes, you rotate the key three times to on position and leave in on (not start) position the third time. If you have no codes it will blink six times then PAUSE then blink one time (61) for all clear. All EFI codes are two digit 22/45/51 etc. Count the blinks, look for the PAUSE then count the blinks....2 blinks pause 2 blinks =22

 

[Islander]

Check for codes

I have a 2005 Polaris ranger XP 700 EFI. Last weekend my son was driving it across the backyard When it stalled out. Tried starting it, it starts then shuts off Starts and shuts off. Has good fuel pressure 40 pounds, Good spark. I have checked the wires for chafing everything looks good. I don't know what to do next. There was a post in October last year about the same problem with the same year vehicle. I read the posts but there was no conclusion at the end. I'm hoping Mr. Gray Who had the post last year may have gotten a solution and could help me.

CC,Check ALL battery connections Check the THROTTLE BODY ADAPTER flange where it bolts to the head for cracking. Can you check for EFI codes ? That will give you a good place to start...