I have a 2005 Polaris ranger XP 700 EFI. Last weekend my son was driving it across the backyard When it stalled out. Tried starting it, it starts then shuts off Starts and shuts off. Has good fuel pressure 40 pounds, Good spark. I have checked the wires for chafing everything looks good. I don't know what to do next. There was a post in October last year about the same problem with the same year vehicle. I read the posts but there was no conclusion at the end. I'm hoping Mr. Gray Who had the post last year may have gotten a solution and could help me.
ChooChoo
I have checked the battery connections, they are good, Throttlebody flange looks solid and has good seating on head. One thing I have noticed though when I turn the key and it starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds the dash lights go out when it shuts off. This is a 2005 and just has the wrench light on the dash which is not lit or does not blink. I do not have a scanner to scan for codes. It almost seems like an electrical issue, As if the injectors were being shut off For lack of electrical current. If this is the case would the ECM be faulty. Is there a way to test or check the ECM
Ok so I have switched the connections on the injectors and disconnected the neg terminal on the battery,waited a minute and reconnected the battery and tried to start then ranger. Same symptom starts and stalls. Now I have Four codes...51, 52, 54, 61 I've read that the 61 is a signal that the codes have been seen and denotes the end on the scan. 51 & 52 injector codes. But I'm not sure about 54. Is it possible there is one wire causing all of this or is the ECM module the real culprit. Now I'm at a real loss as to how to solve this and get this thing running.
Now it is Saturday morning, and I have pulled the storage box out of the driver side of the vehicle. There is an electronic module near the EFI test port. I unplugged the main connection checked the pins and sockets they're all nice and clean. I then plugged it back in ran a test for codes and got one code 54. The 51 and 52 code have disappeared. 54 called the way I understand it has something to do with the thermostat or temperature sensor. I wonder, is it possible the temperature sensor is bad and is there way to test that? Ha ha I just posted this note and I see you replied while I was posting it so I'm not so worried about the 54 anymore. I did a pressure check on the fuel pressure and it was 40 pounds exactly. Disconnected the battery entirely hooked it back up still getting that code. But the engine still starts then shuts off starts then shuts off . I'll follow the link you sent me Islander. Thanks for that and advise. I'll get back to you with my results
Yes, removed ECM unplugged both connections looked for corroded or bad pins and connections, but they actually look real good, like new. Plugged it back in re-attached ECM to frame.connected battery, tried to start ranger. It starts ,runs for 3 seconds, then dies and all the lights on the dash go out when it dies.almost as if it was not getting any power. I tried restarting it several times with the same result. So just for kicks I thought I'd check for codes and guess what? That's right 51, 52, and 54 All are back. It's enough to make a guy pull his hair out. What do you think islander? Could the ECM be shot.?? Aahhhh!
I don't know anyone with any Ranger parts , this is my first. I will say that when I would turn the key on to do the code light test sometimes the fan would come on sometimes the fan would not. For instance this afternoon when I turned the key to Try and start the Ranger after I had checked the plugs on the ECU The fan would run almost every time I turned the key on. After little monkeying around trying different things I would turn the key on and start the vehicle again,and the fan did not come on several times. It's like it's hit and miss.
Well Islander a friend of mine has a friend who used to be a mechanic at a Yamaha shop for 18 years. When that shop closed after it was sold, he started his own business at his home. I called him and he's going to call me back on Monday.hopefully he may have some ideas. I'm just having a problem not being able to find any information on this issue. It is very limited like it hasn't happened very often. But I just can't believe this is that isolated.
Yes I did check the red with white stripe wire and yes it does have power when the key is turned on. I had a long conversation with the polaris mechanic ,( used to be) , for over 20 years. He reiterated exactly what islander said. These machines are notorious for having bad ECM' s. Particularly 04 thru 07. Polaris knew of the problems but couldn't find a fix. They even developed a scan that was supposed to look for possible trouble ECM 's but that proved to be a bust in the end. I ordered a new ECM and after I install it I'll let you guys know what happens. Till then I'll keep my fingers crossed. Wish me luck!!
One note on the discussion with the mechanic that is worth mentioning. He said that when the ranger is started it will run for a few seconds until the run program in the ECM or ECU as it is often called, kicks in and let's the machine run. If it won't run then see if you can put your ECM in another ranger of a friend and see if it will run in that other ranger. That is a good test that will keep you from spending time and money you don't need to.particularly on the 04 to 07's but that does not limit it to just those years.
Got My new ECM today from partzilla. Installed it and turned the key. The first three times the engine started and stalled. My heart was sinking fast, but on the Fourth try the engine started and ran and purred like a kitten. Let it run a couple minutes revved it up a little bit and now I have an issue. All the monkeying around with all the components on the engine to try figure out why it wouldn't run, I got the throttle position sensor TPS out of adjustment and It smells real rich when it's running. I tried by ear and have it running pretty good but I feel it could run better. Any ideas???
Loosened the screw on the base . It seems to run good now but not sure how to set it. I thought I read somewhere you can set it with a voltmeter. Is that true? Also when I started working on this ranger the check engine light with the wrench on it never came on. And my searching for the trouble with this thing I noticed that light was unplugged. Then plug it in and acquired the codes as you told me Islander. Now that I got the thing running everything seems to be working properly except for that yellow wrench light stays on all the time. Also I'm getting codes 51, 52, and 54 again
Thank you islander for all your help. The Ranger runs great however I still have a small issue. Yellow wrench light is lit continuously and I still have a code 54 left. Is the yellow wrench light lit because of the code 54. I disconnected the negative cable on the battery and as you said the codes went away except for 54 after I've run the engine again 54 came back 51 and 52 did not. When I bought this ranger , used, I knew very little about them other than the fact that I thought for sure I wanted one. I am becoming a fast learner on these and the technical advice you have given me is priceless. I am very very thankful for all of your help islander, you are a true proffesional.?
Same problem now
I have a 2005 700 EFI and I just replaced the ECM on it. I did this a week ago yesterday and the vehicle ran fine all week long. Yesterday my son-in-law was going to get some hay out of the field with it. And it stopped dead in the middle of the field. He said he turned the key and started it then it would run a few seconds and die when I got home from work the same thing happened to me it would start then die it would start then die. I got it running revved up and drove in about 10 feet it would die I kept doing this until I got up to the house. Sometimes it would sputter, stall and start going again almost like there was a loose electrical connection. When I got the vehicle in the barn I turned the key three times to check the codes. The lights started blinking there was clicking underneath of the seat there was a humming noise coming from in the fuel tank I'm sure was the fuel pump. The lights would blink on and off, the fan would kick off and on just like a turn signal only quicker. I cannot figure this thing out I've taken the hood off the compartment by the seat out to look at the power control module under the seat. I would hate to think that I just spent $250 on an ECM and now it's bad that quickly. I think I'm going to head to the dealer this morning to buy a new ignition switch although it looks fine. I don't like that about the ECM most rangers would be on the second or third one by now. Hasn't Polaris been able to make a new one that will not burn out? I talked to a mechanic at the polaris dealership this morning. He thinks I have a bad ECM ( New one I just got from partzilla last week). Now what do I do ? Buy another one????
I have a 2005 700 EFI and I just replaced the ECM on it. I did this a week ago yesterday and the vehicle ran fine all week long. Yesterday my son-in-law was going to get some hay out of the field with it. And it stopped dead in the middle of the field. He said he turned the key and started it then it would run a few seconds and die when I got home from work the same thing happened to me it would start then die it would start then die. I got it running revved up and drove in about 10 feet it would die I kept doing this until I got up to the house. Sometimes it would sputter, stall and start going again almost like there was a loose electrical connection. When I got the vehicle in the barn I turned the key three times to check the codes. The lights started blinking there was clicking underneath of the seat there was a humming noise coming from in the fuel tank I'm sure was the fuel pump. The lights would blink on and off, the fan would kick off and on just like a turn signal only quicker. I cannot figure this thing out I've taken the hood off the compartment by the seat out to look at the power control module under the seat. I would hate to think that I just spent $250 on an ECM and now it's bad that quickly. I think I'm going to head to the dealer this morning to buy a new ignition switch although it looks fine. I don't like that about the ECM most rangers would be on the second or third one by now. Hasn't Polaris been able to make a new one that will not burn out? I talked to a mechanic at the polaris dealership this morning. He thinks I have a bad ECM ( New one I just got from partzilla last week). Now what do I do ? Buy another one????
ECM plug
Okay so I checked all the grounds on the grounding block traced a bunch of wires, check continuity everything seems pretty good. Then I pulled the new ECM out I noticed the fourth prong over on the bottom side looked a little funny. almost like It had a coating on it. I pulled the plastic cover off The harness that plugs into the ECM on the power side. There was a little bit of melted plastic around the fourth prong which happened to be a big brown wire. You could see where it had been arcing. I traced the wire and it's the ground wire for the harness I think. So I cleaned it up ! Squeezed it together a little bit so it made a tighter connection. Plugged the ECM back in and voilà!! It starts right up works great and the only code I have is a 54 and the yellow wrench lite is still on. But now the Ranger runs great ran it around the property today did a lot of work with it and it seems to be starting and stopping fine. Thanks islander you were correct it was a ground I believe. I have a full-size car battery in the Ranger mounted right above the radiator , fully charged so I knew it wasn't a power issue in that respect. The small battery that came with the unit wasn't enough to run the winch when you need it. Thanks for your help. Now I just need to get rid of this code 54 and fix that issue.
Okay so I checked all the grounds on the grounding block traced a bunch of wires, check continuity everything seems pretty good. Then I pulled the new ECM out I noticed the fourth prong over on the bottom side looked a little funny. almost like It had a coating on it. I pulled the plastic cover off The harness that plugs into the ECM on the power side. There was a little bit of melted plastic around the fourth prong which happened to be a big brown wire. You could see where it had been arcing. I traced the wire and it's the ground wire for the harness I think. So I cleaned it up ! Squeezed it together a little bit so it made a tighter connection. Plugged the ECM back in and voilà!! It starts right up works great and the only code I have is a 54 and the yellow wrench lite is still on. But now the Ranger runs great ran it around the property today did a lot of work with it and it seems to be starting and stopping fine. Thanks islander you were correct it was a ground I believe. I have a full-size car battery in the Ranger mounted right above the radiator , fully charged so I knew it wasn't a power issue in that respect. The small battery that came with the unit wasn't enough to run the winch when you need it. Thanks for your help. Now I just need to get rid of this code 54 and fix that issue.
It should be noted that on first inspection you could not tell there was a burnt terminal on the plug. The only indication was one of the prongs on the ECM looked different, that is to say it looked like it might have a coating on it. But when I removed the plastic cover with the gasket that makes it waterproof from the plug I could see one of the prongs had melted. This is something I feel would be easy to miss. .... Thanks for all the advice. It really did help me get through this. 
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